Madame Bollinger had a very specific dinner party ritual. Widowed at just 42, she entertained often, and once a good meal was finished, she would lead her guests down to the cellar to choose a mature bottle — one that cellar master André Bergeot would disgorge right there, à la volée, with zero dosage, and pour for friends still standing among the racks. It occurred to her, sometime in the 1960s, that there was no reason this experience should remain private. "We do that for our best friends," she reasoned, "why don't we do it for our customers?" The result, launched in 1967, was Bollinger R.D. — Récemment Dégorgé, "recently disgorged" — a radical idea for its time: an old vintage, aged on its lees for years beyond anything the appellation required, then disgorged and released to market within months, so that drinkers could experience genuinely mature Champagne with the freshness of a wine still in its infancy. At a moment when the entire industry was chasing higher-dosage "prestige cuvées," Madame Bollinger went the opposite direction, releasing R.D. as an Extra Brut with less than 6 grams of dosage — underlining, rather than masking, the wine's essential purity.

The 2008 vintage is the 2008 arriving at R.D.'s exacting standard nearly two decades after Madame Bollinger's death, and by every account, it has been worth the wait. The blend is 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, drawn from 18 different Grand and Premier Cru sites — predominantly Aÿ and Verzenay for the Pinot Noir, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for the Chardonnay — fermented entirely in oak barrels before an extraordinarily long maturation on the lees, more than four times the appellation's minimum requirement, aged the entire time under natural cork rather than crown cap. 2008 itself was a genuinely uncertain growing season — a cool spring stretching into a stormy summer, before the sun returned in time for harvest — but Bollinger's team turned that instability into one of the decade's most celebrated vintages, marked by an abundance of exceptional Pinot Noir.

Neal Martin, writing for The Wine Advocate, called it simply "the finest R.D. of the decade," awarding 98 Points and comparing the style most closely to the celebrated 1996 — "but the 2008 is more integrated and harmonious on release." James Suckling went even further, awarding 99 Points: "amazing aromas of sweet uncooked pie crust with almonds... so tangy and energetic with sizzling acidity and creamy tannins... extreme character that grabs your attention." Decanter's panel awarded 97 Points, finding "marzipan, acacia, apricot and patisserie all vying for attention... impossibly youthful yet reassuringly mature, a bread basket of delicious contradiction." Thirteen years and six months on the lees. Three grams per liter of dosage. A wine built, quite literally, from one woman's insistence that her friends deserved something the rest of Champagne wasn't offering — and that her customers deserved exactly the same thing.

Origins & Craftsmanship

Champagne Bollinger was founded in 1829 in Aÿ and remains one of the great independent, family-owned houses of the region, drawing on 174 hectares across seven principal vineyards, 85% of which are classified Grand or Premier Cru — a scale of self-sufficiency that lets Bollinger produce the overwhelming majority of its own fruit rather than purchasing from growers, a genuine rarity among Champagne houses of its stature. The house remains devoted to traditions many of its peers abandoned decades ago: hand riddling by cellar staff, natural cork closures on reserve magnums, and the maintenance of the region's last in-house cooper, still building and repairing the oak barrels the house insists on using for fermentation.

R.D. — Récemment Dégorgé — was created in the 1960s by Madame Bollinger (Lily Bollinger), inspired directly by her own private practice of sharing recently disgorged, mature Champagne with dinner guests. The first vintage released commercially was the 1952, launched in 1967, followed almost immediately by simultaneous international releases of the 1953 (Switzerland and France) and 1955 (United States and Italy) — vintages that established R.D. permanently on the world stage. The cuvée is produced only in exceptional years, fermented entirely in oak barrels, then matured on its lees for a period more than four times longer than Champagne's appellation regulations require, aged the entire time under natural cork. Disgorgement happens only shortly before release, preserving a freshness that most Champagnes of comparable age simply cannot achieve — the entire point of the "recently disgorged" concept that gives the cuvée its name.

The 2008 vintage is composed of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, sourced from 18 distinct Grand and Premier Cru vineyard sites — predominantly Aÿ and Verzenay for Pinot Noir, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for Chardonnay. The growing season itself was defined by genuinely unstable conditions: a cool spring extending well into a stormy summer, followed by a return of sunshine in time for harvest. Despite the challenges, Bollinger's viticultural team preserved the vineyards' quality, and 2008 emerged as an exceptional year, marked specifically by an abundance of outstanding Pinot Noir. The finished wine spent 13 years and 6 months aging on its lees before disgorgement, and carries a dosage of just 3 grams per liter — a true Extra Brut in the tradition Madame Bollinger established nearly sixty years ago.

Critics Reviews

James Suckling — 99 Points (November 2023):
"Amazing aromas of sweet uncooked pie crust with almonds. Then you smell dried apples, apricots and pineapple. Grilled fruits, too. Full-bodied. So tangy and energetic with sizzling acidity and creamy tannins. Flavorful and lightly oxidized at the finish. Smacking my lips. Agile. Ginger and spices. A touch of bitter complexity with some salinity. Extreme character that grabs your attention. 13 years and six months aging on the lees with cork. 3 grams dosage. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Don't serve too cold."

Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate — 98 Points (March 2023):
"When I was tasting Bollinger's brilliant Grande Année in this vintage, I was trying to imagine how good the 2008 Extra-Brut R.D. would be, as the style of the vintage seems almost perfectly adapted to this cuvée. Four years later, we have the answer, and the wine is brilliant. Disgorged in 2022, it's more reserved out of the gates than the dramatic Grande Année was on release, unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, orange peel, freshly baked bread, subtle hints of fino sherry, wet stones and macadamia nut. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a deep core of fruit that's animated by racy acids and a refined pinpoint mousse, concluding with a bone-dry finish. Extremely harmonious and full of youthful energy, it's the finest R.D. of the decade and one that will richly reward a bit of additional age on cork. In style, the most obvious comparison is with the 1996, but the 2008 is more integrated and harmonious on release."

Decanter — 97 Points (March 2023):
"Bright in colour with gold reflections, the aromatics are immediately captivating, with marzipan, acacia, apricot and patisserie all vying for attention. It's impossibly youthful yet reassuringly mature, a bread basket of delicious contradiction. Cerebral seduction ensues on the palate, with dried fruits, bergamot and lime joining the party, then come the hazelnut notes — which have been identified as a leitmotif for the vintage — and a clean, almost chalky finish to restore rigorous harmony. Precision in no way undermines generosity, and generosity in no way undermines potential. A very fine piece of work all in all, tasted from magnum, alongside bottle and jeroboam."

Tasting Profile

Nose
Bright gold with gorgeous gold reflections. Sweet uncooked pie crust and almonds open with immediate, unmistakable richness, joined by dried apples, apricots, and pineapple. Marzipan, acacia, and patisserie vie for attention, alongside crisp orchard fruit, orange peel, and freshly baked bread. Subtle hints of fino sherry and wet stones add oxidative complexity, with macadamia nut and grilled fruit rounding out an aromatic profile that is, in Decanter's words, "impossibly youthful yet reassuringly mature."

Palate
Full-bodied, tangy, and energetic, with sizzling acidity and a refined, pinpoint mousse. A deep core of fruit is animated by racy acids, dried fruits, bergamot, and lime, joined by the hazelnut character that critics have identified as a defining leitmotif of the entire 2008 vintage. Ginger and spice add warmth, with a touch of bitter complexity and salinity giving the wine genuine tension and grip.

Finish
Bone-dry and precise, with a clean, almost chalky character restoring rigorous harmony after the palate's generosity. Lightly oxidized notes linger at the very close, agile and persistent — a finish that critics agree rewards patience, with real potential to continue developing on cork for years to come.

Quick Overview

Category	Details
Appellation	Champagne AOC — Aÿ, France
Style	Vintage Extra Brut, Récemment Dégorgé
Vintage	2008
Producer	Champagne Bollinger
Founded	1829 in Aÿ
Cuvée Created	1967 by Madame (Lily) Bollinger
First Vintage Released	1952
Blend	71% Pinot Noir · 29% Chardonnay
Crus	18 Grand & Premier Crus — primarily Aÿ, Verzenay (Pinot Noir); Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant (Chardonnay)
Fermentation	Entirely in oak barrels
Lees Aging	13 years, 6 months — under natural cork
Dosage	3 g/L — Extra Brut
Disgorged	2022
2008 Vintage	Cool, unstable spring/summer, sun returned for harvest — exceptional Pinot Noir year
Critics	James Suckling 99 · Wine Advocate (Neal Martin) 98 · Decanter 97
House Vineyards	174 hectares, 7 principal sites, 85% Grand/Premier Cru
Style / Identity	The house's flagship late-disgorged prestige cuvée — mature depth with recently-disgorged freshness
Aromas & Flavors	Pie crust, almond, dried apple, apricot, pineapple, marzipan, hazelnut, orange peel, fino sherry, wet stone, macadamia, ginger
Serve	12°C — don't serve too cold
Drinking Window	Now through 2040+
Bottle Size	750ml

Food Pairings

Langoustine with saffron vinaigrette
Poultry in saffron and ginger sauce
Rich fish — salmon, tuna
Shellfish
Aged hard cheeses — Comté, Parmigiano-Reggiano

Bollinger Champagne